A Journey through the Wonders of Argentina and the Frozen Antarctica
Day 1 - Dec 10, Sunday: From Dubai to Buenos Aires
Early morning vibes as we left our home at 5 am for the
Dubai Airport, anticipation fueling our excitement. The Airport Lounge welcomed
us, providing a brief respite before the 8 am Emirates flight to Buenos Aires,
with a technical stop in Rio for 90 minutes.
The 20-hour flight (24 hours including airport time) was a
marathon of boredom and fatigue. Bijili,
managed to find solace in a few Netflix series and struck up engaging
conversations with our co-passenger, a friendly soul from Argentina.
Personally, I battled through two landings with persistent ear pain, making the
journey more challenging.
Touching down in Buenos Aires around 6:30 pm, we navigated
through immigration and promptly booked a cab to our haven, Hotel Holiday Inn.
Our first brush with Argentine currency saw us exchanging 100 dollars for pesos.
The hotel check-in was seamless, offering a promising outside view. With a
quick stop at the self-assisted restaurant for a bite and a comforting cup of
tea, we surrendered to sleep, ready to unravel Day 2.
Day 2 - Dec 11, Monday : Exploring Buenos Aires
Waking up to a new day in Buenos Aires, we kicked off with a
somewhat average breakfast at Holiday Inn.
Our exploration of the city began with the convenience of
Uber, offering comfort at an unexpectedly reasonable cost, thanks to the recent
devaluation of the USD against the Argentine peso.
Our first stop was the renowned Teatro Colón, where we
booked the 10 am English tour. Marveling at the architecture and intricate
details like chandeliers and sculptures, we couldn't help but reminisce scenes
from the Spanish Netflix series La Reina del Sur. A short stroll away, we
encountered the iconic El Obelisco, a monumental structure that dominates the
cityscape.
Later in the day, we reserved an evening slot for the Tango
show at Tango Porteño, but not before a visit to the evocative Cementerio de la
Recoleta. The cemetery, marked with road numbers, captivated us with its size,
underground art, and extraordinary coffins.
Lunch brought us face-to-face with Argentina's
Parrillada, a hearty but somewhat bland dish that surprised us with its massive
quantity. Battling language barriers, I had to employ Google Translator to get
the right-sized drink. Filled to the brim, we Ubered back to Holiday Inn,
checked out, and transitioned to the grand Hotel Hilton
After a brief nap, our evening adventure began. We visited Floralis Generica, capturing vibrant photos under the bright 6 pm sunshine. The day unfolded further with a glimpse of the Argentine president near Casa Rosada, followed by dinner at Delhi Mahal, an Indian restaurant.
The highlight of the night was the Tango show at Tango
Porteño, an immersive experience showcasing the mesmerizing Argentine national
dance. The synchronized footwork and music left us in awe. The clock striking
11:30 pm signaled the end of an exceptional day, and we Ubered back to our
hotel, savoring the memories etched in every step of our Buenos Aires
exploration.
Day 3 - Dec 12, Tuesday: Buenos Aires & preparing for Antarctica Expeditions
Welcoming the morning with a sumptuous complimentary
breakfast, we geared up for a crucial day in our Argentina and Antarctica
adventure. Our Antarctica expedition with Hurtigruten Cruise was set to begin,
and our first task was confirming details with the staff and collecting baggage
tags. They informed us that our bags needed to be placed outside our rooms by 8
pm, and an early breakfast awaited us from 3 am to 4 am the next day. The bus
to the airport was scheduled for 5 am.
With these instructions in mind, we ventured out and took an
Uber to La Boca, a vibrant community known for its colorful houses and the
famous pedestrian street, Caminito, where tango performances unfold. Our visit
included a photo session with the Messi statue proudly holding the World Cup.
An Uber led us to the San Telmo market, a gem featuring authentic kiosks and shops offering typical food. Lunch, accompanied by a delightful Gin, added to the charm of the day.
An attempt to visit Diego Maradona's house faced setbacks as Uber declined, and local concerns about distance and safety thwarted our taxi plans. We opted for a nap back at the hotel.
In the evening, we strolled across the iconic Puente de la Mujer, the Buenos Aires Bridge, with both sides of the roads buzzing with music from the Bar & Restaurants. Returning to the hotel, we ordered room service for an early dinner, eagerly anticipating the start of our expedition. Resting up, we eagerly awaited the next chapter
Day 4 - Dec 13, Wednesday: Ushering in the Antarctica Expedition
Excitement filled the air as we began the day early, kicking off the much-anticipated cruise tour with Hurtigruten. The day commenced at 3 am, and after a hearty breakfast, we hopped on bus no 5, reaching the airport within 45 minutes. Our tour guide briefed us on the upcoming activities, setting the stage for the adventure.
Boarding the chartered
flight around 7 am, we touched down in Ushuaia at approximately 10:30 am.
Stepping out of the airport, we were greeted by the chilly weather, prompting
the immediate donning of gloves, caps, and fleece jackets. The temperature
hovered around 3 to 4 degrees Celsius as we embarked on a Ushuaia sightseeing
tour organized by the cruise
The highlight
of the tour was Tierra del Fuego National Park, renowned for its breathtaking
landscapes featuring coastlines, forests, glaciers, lakes, mountains, and waterfalls.
Fagnano and Roca lakes, nestled within the park's borders, provided picturesque
backdrops for memorable photo stops
We made a
special stop at the End of the World Post Office, where we dropped a postcard
to my dad in my hometown in India. The uncertainty of its journey's duration
added an extra layer of anticipation
A delightful
lunch at a local restaurant featured Empanada, Quiche, and cupcake delights,
fueling us for the continued exploration.
Around 3 pm,
the scenic Ushuaia port welcomed us, and there it stood—our expedition vessel,
the MS Fridtjof Nansen. The meticulous planning by Hurtigruten ensured a smooth
check-in process, orchestrating the arrival of buses in batches. Within
minutes, we found ourselves inside the ship, our baggage safely stowed outside
our superior room, XTD 831, complete with a spacious balcony. The excitement
was palpable as we explored various floors, capturing moments with photos
before settling into our home for the next 12 days.
At 6 pm, the
Captain invited us to a welcome drink at Level 10, the Explorer Lounge.
Gathered with the other 399 guests, we enjoyed the warm welcome speech and
clinked glasses to the adventure ahead. Dinner at the Aune Restaurant followed,
accompanied by a refreshing beer. The ship smoothly sailed through the Beagle
Channel towards the Drake Passage.
As the day
transitioned into a perpetual twilight, we closed the curtains and retired to
bed, ready to embrace the enchanting journey awaiting us in the days to come
Day 5 - Dec 14, Thursday: Conquering the Drake Passage
Awakening to
the ship's rhythmic dance through the Drake Passage, we embraced the reality of
navigating one of the most challenging maritime routes. The passage is
notorious for its powerful currents and towering waves, reaching up to 20 feet
(6 m), making it a formidable journey for ships.
As the morning
progressed, the sea became increasingly rough during high tide. Undeterred, we
explored the ship's various floors, reveling in the thrill of the turbulent
waters. However, as the afternoon unfolded, the infamous sea sickness made its
presence felt. Even Bijili surrendered, and vomiting became an unwelcome
companion. Thankfully, we had brought tablets, and additional supplies were
available at the reception.
In the
afternoon, a briefing session outlined our upcoming landings and group
assignments. The 399 guests were organized into 12 groups, and we found
ourselves part of the GAINT PETRELS. The expedition crew demonstrated
exceptional planning, ensuring everything aligned seamlessly.
Later in the
evening, Captain's words brought relief as he assured us that by the following
evening, we would near the Antarctica Peninsula, where the waters would calm.
The day concluded with dinner at the Aune Restaurant, followed by a night of
navigating the rough Drake Passage in our swinging beds.
Day 6 - Dec 15, Friday : Navigating the Drake Passage
Waking up to
the familiar rhythm of the ship, we found ourselves still in the midst of the
challenging Drake Passage. Motion sickness affected a significant portion of
the guests, with many partners missing due to the relentless swaying. Despite
the conditions, I continued to explore different areas of the ship, while Bijili
battled with seasickness.
Anticipation
filled the air as we were originally scheduled to reach Antarctica's waters in
the afternoon. However, due to rough weather conditions, the captain informed
us of a delay, assuring that we would enter calm waters later in the night. In
preparation for the upcoming landings, we collected our boots for the next day.
In the
evening, a briefing session revealed our first landing destination – Gerlache
Strait in the morning and Orne Harbour in the afternoon. Our group was set to
land at 6 pm, but the success of these plans hinged on the unpredictable
Antarctic weather. Fingers crossed, we hoped for favorable conditions, knowing
that a Plan B was in place if needed.
After a
satisfying dinner, we closed the curtains with the sun still shining in the
perpetual twilight of the Antarctic summer night, eagerly awaiting the next
chapter on Day 7.
Day 7 - Dec 16, Saturday : Gerlache Strait and Orne Harbour
Awakening on
the seventh day of our Antarctic expedition unveiled a mesmerizing panorama.
The morning sunlight illuminated a tranquil sea, surrounded by icebergs,
glaciers, and snow-covered mountains in a kaleidoscope of colors. Enthralled by
this beauty, I roused Bijili to join me on the balcony, where colossal icebergs
and majestic glaciers awaited our first gaze.
Rushing to
the top deck, we reveled in an expansive view after a delightful breakfast, the
ship gracefully navigating the legendary Gerlache Strait. Nestled in the
Antarctic Peninsula, between Anvers Island and the Danco Coast, the Gerlache
Strait beckoned with its spiky blue icebergs and promises of humpback whale
sightings.
Our morning
took a luxurious turn as we immersed ourselves in the Jacuzzi, gazing upon the
mesmerizing Gerlache Strait. With the sun's warmth embracing us, I even dipped
into a warm swimming pool facing the Strait, a moment of indulgence amid the
pristine Antarctic surroundings.
Post-lunch,
our vessel set a course for Orne Harbour, a narrow inlet into the west coast of
Graham Land, famed for its shimmering glaciers and pristine white landscapes.
Anticipation grew for our first landing.
Donning
thermal gear and boots, our group gathered at 5 pm for the scheduled 6 pm
landing. Boarding the Zodiac, we coasted to the shore, marking our initial
steps on Antarctic soil. This symbolic landing completed our quest to set foot
on all seven continents. An unplanned, spirited hike led us to a mountain
summit, where a lively penguin colony awaited. The joyous moments lingered as
we retraced our steps to the Zodiac and then to the ship.
Day 7 concluded with
a gratifying dinner, marking the end of an extraordinary day in Antarctica. The
anticipation for Day 8 filled us with excitement for more adventures in this
pristine polar paradise.
Day 8 - Dec 17, Sunday : Neko Harbour and Paradise Bay
Our eighth
day in Antarctica dawned with the awe-inspiring spectacle of Neko Harbour.
Renowned for its striking glacier, occasionally calving ice, the site also
hosts around 250 breeding pairs of Gentoo penguins. Being the first group
scheduled for landing, we eagerly embarked on our Zodiac adventure after a
hearty breakfast.
Navigating through a mesh of penguin highways, we found ourselves in close proximity to these fascinating creatures. A memorable encounter unfolded as a penguin strolled along its designated highway, pausing to gaze at us before continuing on its way. Amidst this lively scene, we also spotted a relaxed seal basking in the Antarctic ambiance. Spending precious moments in this penguin-populated landscape, we seized the opportunity to hold a small banner adorned with the Antarctica map, capturing a photograph that would etch this experience into our memories.
After a
fulfilling excursion, we returned to the ship and set sail for the afternoon
destination – Paradise Bay. This pristine spot in Antarctica boasts
breathtaking reflections of mountains and glaciers in the calm waters, offering
an unparalleled sense of tranquility.
The cruise allowed
us to get up close to magnificent glaciers, witnessing their cavings and
carvings. Amidst the icy surroundings, a vocal penguin atop a glacier provided
a delightful and entertaining moment. The expedition crew even handed us an ice
block, affording us the unique opportunity to hold and photograph this frozen
relic.
As the day
wound down, we returned to the ship, relishing a satisfying dinner before
retiring for the night. Day 9 promises new adventures in this extraordinary
Antarctic journey.
Day 9 - Dec 18, Monday : A Snowfall Surprise and Charcot Charm
Day 9
commenced with a delightful surprise – a change in weather, ushered in by the
early morning sight of ice on the balcony railings. A closer inspection
revealed that it was SNOWING !!!. Eagerly stepping outside, we embraced our
inaugural experience of snow rain, becoming the first to explore the upper
deck. Clad in waterproof gear, we reveled in the enchanting snowfall, a
first-time encounter that etched itself into our memories. Following this snowy
interlude, we returned inside for a warm and hearty breakfast.
Our intended
destination for the day was Port Charcot, a sheltered bay on the western side
of Booth Island, forming part of the western side of the Lemaire Channel along
the Western Antarctic Peninsula. However, the location proved windy,
challenging the ship's anchoring capabilities. Despite the weather's reluctance
to cooperate, we received a call for a landing later in the evening.
Boarding the
Zodiac, we experienced a unique landing amidst numerous penguin colonies. As we
ascended a mountain, a breathtaking view of a bay unfolded on the other side.
The hiking length was considerable, though less steep, offering a perfect
balance. Grateful for the opportunity to make this landing despite the windy
conditions, we spent an hour exploring the landscape before returning to the
ship. The day concluded with a dinner filled with shared stories and the
satisfaction of having experienced our first snow rain.
Day 10 - Dec 19, Tuesday : Windy Challenges and Damoy Delights
Day 10
greeted us with heavy rain, intense winds, and rough seas. As the 4th day of
our 5-day sojourn in Antarctica, our plans to visit Port Lockroy faced the
brunt of the harsh weather conditions.
Port Lockroy,
a cluster of three buildings, prominently featuring Bransfield House, was
inaccessible due to the inclement weather. Despite this setback, a resilient team
from Port Lockroy joined us on the ship, offering a unique opportunity for an
insightful interaction with the dedicated researchers. This impromptu session
provided valuable insights into the daily lives of scientists and researchers
navigating the challenges of the Antarctic climate.
In the
afternoon, following lunch, we embarked on a landing at Damoy Point. The Zodiac
journey to the landing site was met with formidable winds, leading to a comical
yet impressive incident – Bijili's cap took flight, gracefully floating in the
Antarctic waters. Alerting the Zodiac pilot, a strategic retrieval operation
ensued, drawing applause from fellow passengers. The landing continued with the
discovery of Damoy Point Hut, a well-preserved structure holding scientific
equipment and artifacts, designated as a Historic Site or Monument.
Our time
spent exploring Damoy Point was a testament to the varied conditions Antarctica
could present, from windy challenges to unique delights. Satisfied with a
successful landing despite the weather, we returned to the ship, concluding the
day with a hearty dinner and reflections on the diverse weather experiences in
Antarctica.
Day 11 - Dec 20, Wednesday : Deception Island Delights
Good morning
greeted us on Day 11, revealing a brilliant sun, clear skies, and scattered
clouds, creating the perfect backdrop for capturing memorable photos on the top
deck. Our location for the day was Deception Island, nestled in the South
Shetland Islands near the Antarctic Peninsula, renowned for its expansive and
usually "safe" natural harbor, occasionally influenced by the
underlying active volcano. This island, a caldera of an active volcano, had
experienced significant damage to local scientific stations in 1967 and 1969
but has since become a popular tourist destination. Our group was scheduled for Afternoon landing and morning conditions were too good to go for photography session on top deck.
In the
afternoon, we seized the opportunity for our final landing at Deception Island,
exploring an area distinct in color due to ash-layered glaciers, possibly
influenced by the nearby volcano. The hiking conditions were favorable, with no
ice to navigate. While the starting point of the hike was steep, the descent
was assisted by two crew members who aided Bijili in negotiating the descent to
the waters.
This location
also hosted the planned Polar Plunge, an adventurous feat embraced by many
despite the frigid water temperatures. Braving the cold, we immersed ourselves
knee-deep in the water, clad in waterproof pants. With the completion of this incomplete
plunge, we boarded the Zodiac and returned to the ship, concluding our
Antarctica landing adventure on a high note.
Day 12 awaits
as we embark on the return journey through the Drake Passage, reflecting on the
extraordinary experiences and memories created during our time in this pristine
polar realm.
Day 12 - Dec 21, Thursday : Nautical Insights and Technological Marvels
Having
concluded our series of landings, the ship set sail towards Ushuaia via the
Drake Passage on Day 12. The apprehension about the notorious Drake Passage
seemed less pronounced this time, with many passengers, including Bijili,
adapting to the sea conditions.
Morning conversations
with fellow travelers set the tone for the day, fostering connections and
shared experiences. In the afternoon, our curiosity led us to a Ship Engine and
Bridge tour. As engineers, this was particularly intriguing, delving into the
intricacies of the hybrid ship Fridtjof Nansen. The tour highlighted the ship's
self-sufficiency, equipped with a battery for specific usage, along with
insights into the Desalination, Sewage, and Recycling plants.
The colossal
Rolls-Royce engines left a lasting impression, and in the Bridge tour, the
captain elucidated the ship's cutting-edge technologies. The Dynamic
Positioning System, steering clear of conventional steering mechanisms,
showcased the ship's ability to navigate smoothly on autopilot.
In the evening,
the expedition team briefed us on the plan for our return journey, including a
flight to Buenos Aires and disembarkation in Ushuaia on Day 14. The night
concluded with a screening of the Norwegian movie "Roald Amundsen,"
offering a glimpse into the daring polar explorations of the early 20th
century.
As we retired
for the night, we could see the sun peeping out at midnight on the horizon and the anticipation heightened with just one day remaining on our
extraordinary journey.
Day 13 - Dec 22, Friday: Homeward Bound Preparations
As our voyage
through the Drake Passage neared its end on Day 13, the captain anticipated
reaching calm waters and entering the Beagle Channel by evening. The day began
with a task reflecting responsible tourism: returning and cleaning our
expedition boots. This meticulous process ensures that no non-native species
are inadvertently introduced to Antarctica, preserving its pristine ecosystem
for future visitors.
Post the boot return,
relaxation ensued at the Deck 10 lounge, offering a serene vantage point for
reflection
The evening
brought a heartwarming program involving the entire crew. Each staff member,
from the culinary team to those maintaining the engine room, was introduced. A
touch of festive spirit infused the air with a Christmas song, fitting for the
approaching holiday season.
The highlight of the evening was a Q&A session, where guests, seasoned travelers with a wealth of experiences, engaged with the captain, Chief Engineer, F&B Manager, and Expedition Team leader. The questions, rich with curiosity and insight, created an informative dialogue, enhancing our understanding of the ship's workings and the intricacies of polar expeditions.
Later, at 8 PM, the logistics of departure took center stage as guests were required to place their check-in baggage outside their cabins. The evening ended with the bittersweet task of repacking, knowing that our Antarctic adventure was drawing to a close. The next day held the promise of a brief sightseeing tour of Ushuaia town before our departure.
Day 14 - Dec 23, Saturday: Farewell to Ushuaia and Return to Buenos Aires
Our final
morning aboard the Fridtjof Nansen greeted us with a view of Ushuaia bathed in
bright sunlight. Breakfast at Aune Restaurant marked the end of our daily
routine, and we bid farewell to the attentive waitstaff and F&B Manager who
had become familiar faces during our expedition.
Heading to
the top deck, we absorbed the picturesque panorama of Ushuaia, capturing the
scenic town through numerous photos and videos. The sense of closure loomed as
we prepared to disembark and explore Ushuaia on a guided tour.
At 8:30 AM,
we boarded a bus with a tour guide who acquainted us with the town's history
and highlights. A visit to the post office allowed us to stamp our passports
with the cherished Antarctica imprint. Casual window shopping in local gift
shops followed, providing glimpses of Ushuaia's cultural offerings.
Around 10 AM, we
proceeded to Ushuaia Airport, boarding our chartered flight at 11:30 AM. By
2:45 PM, we landed in Buenos Aires, bidding farewell to our fellow expedition
members. A prepaid taxi took us to Hilton, where we checked in smoothly and
opted for a late checkout the next day.
With a brief
nap to rejuvenate, we ventured out for some last-minute shopping, exploring
nearby shops and taking a leisurely 20-minute walk to Florida Avenue. Despite
most shops being closed due to the late hour, we embraced the vibrant city
atmosphere. Returning to Hilton via Uber, we enjoyed beer alongside Puente de
Mujer before concluding the day with a delightful dinner at the hotel.
As the
curtain fell on our final day in Ushuaia and Buenos Aires, anticipation
lingered for the journey back to Dubai on Day 15.
Day 15 - Dec 24, Sunday : Farewell to Buenos Aires and Homeward Bound
Waking up on
our last day in Buenos Aires, we opted for a relaxed breakfast ordered to our
room, finding that one portion generously served two. Around 10 AM, we ventured
to Florida Avenue via Uber, experiencing a slight drizzle.
Exploring
various leather factory shops, we selected bags and gathered Buenos Aires
souvenirs for our close ones. Bijili found elegant pendants for both herself
and relatives. Returning to the hotel around 2 PM, we commenced packing for our
journey back home.
At 6 PM, a
taxi transported us to the airport, reaching around 6:45 PM. Smooth check-in
led us to a unique immigration process, introducing us to the intricacies of
Buenos Aires Airport. After overcoming the surprise immigration section after
the security, we enjoyed some snacks and a small drink in the lounge,
anticipating a long 20-hour flight ahead.
Departing at
approximately 10:30 PM, our flight charted a course towards Rio for a technical
stop. Amidst the extended journey, we landed in Dubai on Dec 25th around 11:30
PM local time. Navigating through immigration and baggage collection, we took a
taxi, arriving home at 1 AM. This extraordinary 15 to 16-day expedition,
spanning Dubai, Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, Antarctica, and back, etched memories of
adventure and discovery, marking it as one of our most cherished and impactful
journeys.
Embarking on
a 15-day journey away from home after a prolonged hiatus, we discovered a
vibrant tapestry of new experiences and forged friendships that made this
expedition to Argentina and Antarctica truly exceptional. Interacting with
fellow travelers revealed a community of positive-minded individuals, a
refreshing change from encounters with negativity in the past.
Hurtigruten,
the orchestrator of our adventure, stood out with meticulous planning that
efficiently navigated queues and minimized waiting times during check-ins.
While the cuisine was delectable, our South Indian taste buds craved a bit more
spice, a sentiment we conveyed, along with constructive feedback on cocktail
standards.
The unsung
heroes of the expedition were the dedicated members of the expedition team,
tirelessly ensuring smooth landings, offering informative briefings, and
braving the harsh Antarctic conditions to make our experience unforgettable.
Their professionalism and friendliness created a camaraderie that transcended
the boundaries of the journey.
A heartfelt
appreciation extends to Payal from Eduoutings, our local partner in Dubai, who
handled the complete tour impeccably. Payal took our case personally, guiding
us through the intricacies of the visa process, medical clearance, and all
other documentation required for the expedition. Her involvement, including
securing the coveted XTD 831 cabin, showcased exceptional dedication. Any query
or confusion was promptly addressed, making our journey seamless.
Argentina,
with its vibrant colors and amiable people, complemented the Antarctic leg of
our adventure beautifully. The warmth and cooperation of the locals made our
stay memorable, with no hint of scams or ulterior motives.
In
retrospect, this journey ranks among our best tours, a testament to the
remarkable destinations, the extraordinary people we encountered, and the
seamless orchestration by Hurtigruten and Eduoutings. As we reminisce about the
camaraderie forged on this odyssey, we are left with a treasure trove of
memories that will resonate for a lifetime.
Posted by Kiran Arjun - 10-01-2024
This blog's narrative and structure wouldn't have been possible without the assistance of ChatGPT, which brilliantly transformed my thoughts into words. Kudos to technology for making stortelling more accessible !